Protecting the edges: side tape

The edge of the bat is the most exposed part of the assembly. Every stroke that lands near the rim, every brush against the table while retrieving a short ball, every accidental knock against the playing surface during a wide movement punishes that strip where blade, sponge and topsheet meet. Side tape — also called edge tape — exists to absorb that punishment.

Its main function is mechanical, not cosmetic. The tape protects the edge of the blade against chips and impacts, and holds the border of the rubber against the blade, delaying the lifting that use and humidity cause over time. Without tape, the first few millimetres of rubber around the perimeter are left exposed: they take direct knocks, lift at the corners and end up dragging glue with them. The process is gradual but inevitable, and once the edge starts to separate, the degradation accelerates. Section 13.9 deals with repairing lifted edges; side tape is the prevention.

There is a second, less obvious function: the tape cushions the impact of strokes that connect on the rim of the bat. It does not turn a mishit into a clean stroke, but it does reduce the vibration reaching the handle when the ball catches the edge, and it protects the blade from marks that over time weaken the surface structure. On blades with a varnished finish, a sharp knock on the edge can chip the varnish and leave the fibre exposed to humidity. The tape prevents that damage.

Tapes differ in three variables: width, material and adhesive.

• Width. The commonest are between 9 and 12 millimetres. A 9 mm tape covers the edge exactly; a 12 mm one overlaps slightly onto the faces of the bat and offers more hold over the border of the rubber. The choice depends on the total thickness of the assembly — blade plus two rubbers — and on the player's preference. If the tape is too wide, it encroaches on the playing surface and can interfere with strokes landing at the far end of the head. If it is too narrow, it does not cover and does not protect.
• Material. Most are tapes of synthetic fabric or polyurethane with some elasticity. Fabric ones adapt better to the curves of the head; polyurethane ones resist abrasion better. Some brands offer padded tapes, with a layer of foam that adds impact protection in exchange for a couple of extra grams. The practical difference between materials is smaller than the catalogue suggests: any tape from a known brand does its job if it is applied well.
• Adhesive. Every tape has an adhesive face. The quality of that adhesive determines how long the tape stays in place before starting to peel at the ends. Low-quality adhesives lose their grip with sweat from the hands and with heat, and leave sticky residue when removed. Better ones hold for months without giving way. There is no way to judge this before buying beyond previous experience with the brand.

Application is simple. Starting at the base of the handle, the tape is stuck to the edge and run around the perimeter of the head under gentle, constant tension. On the curves the tape has to be allowed to adapt without creasing; pulled too tight, it lifts on the concave stretches. On completing the circuit, the two ends overlap by a few millimetres at the base of the handle, where they are least in the way. The whole perimeter is then pressed down with the thumb to secure contact.

Is it compulsory? No, neither by the rules nor by technical necessity. Some players prefer to play without tape because they like the feel of a clean edge or because they consider that the few grams it adds alter the balance. The decision is legitimate, but it means accepting that the edges will deteriorate sooner and that the rubbers will start lifting at the borders more readily. For most players, the cost of a tape — minimal in price and in weight — is amply repaid by the wear it prevents.